June 14 Tuesday Cape Flattery to Neah Bay
The guidebook has devoted several pages to the risks of rounding Cape Flattery. It is referred to as “the big left turn” — a meaningful reference to the sharp demarcation between inland and offshore sailing and to one’s commitment to forsake the relative safety of nearby storm hide outs (Niah Bay) for exposure to the full force of the Pacific Ocean and few places to run and hide.
My luck is back with me Instead of dangerous conditions I found lake-like seas and a docile 12 knot breeze. So I sailed under mizzen and genoa around the “big right turn” and all the way east to Neah Bay. It was a thrill! Who ever gets a placid sea for an easy day sail around Cape Flattery?
I douced sails and motored into Neah Bay at 1500 hours. If you can’t raise the harbor master, or anyone, on the VHF, just grab any available open slip. You quickly surmise there is room for everyone, little need for discipline and no need for regulations.
This is a world-forgotten peaceful little Indian reservation (it is not a town, and therefore doesn’t have the support a town gets. You may find the dockmaster in, or not, and restaurants may be open during feeding hours, or not. And the Internet is old dial-up speed, when it is working, or maybe not. Fishing is the local talk, and the town business is fishing charters, but there is no business todayl RD is the only sailing vessel in the harbor. Overall everyone is lay-back polite, and no one seems to care about you.
I needed more rest, so I slept for awhile and then was lucky to find Linda’s restaurant a couple of blocks down the street… open, and serving individually cooked fresh cod or wood-fired pizzas… as delicious as you will ever find.
Tomorrow’s goal is to make 50 miles east to Port Angeles.