April 23 Saturday Turtle Bay, Mexico
Raven’s Dance is pinned down in Turtle Bay, 280 miles south of San Diego. One weather system after another is rolling down the Baja Coast, preventing movement north. At the moment it looks like we will be here for a week.
In this morning’ amicable discussion over coffee, My crew, Lisa and Siggie, who increasingly seem to vote as one, have elected to take a bus to San Diego, rather than wait a week in little Turtle Bay. Sigggie explains that he is getting a cold, and therefore he will shortly be worthless crew, and it would be best for me if he left the boat now. It is such a thinly disguised excuse that I am silently humored, and I wonder about his motivation. It appears that Lisa has him wrapped around her finger.
The bottom line is simple: In the confluence of the weather and their relationship entanglement my crew is abandoning ship today. I withhold all comments and give myself credit for supporting their choice. And the dye is cast.
We fuel and water RD and go to shore. They search for a hotel and I go to the El Moroco Restaurant for coffee and Internet access.
We are in a small fishing village.. At the restaurant we practice saying goodbye and they leave to search for a hotel, and return later in the afternoon and we say good bye for the second time. However our paths accidentally cross at sunset, and the final goodbye between Lisa and me is almost tearful.
Lisa and I have traveled and sailed together since October. When I met her in October 2015 she had zero sailing experience. When I left her in April 2016 she was captain material. We had sailed the winter in Mexico, walked miles of pure beaches, swam with whale sharks, snorkeled, taught and learned from each other, talked heart to heart in the middle of the night watch, took meals together as RD gently swung around her anchor. Lisa could write the guidebook on the real Mexico (or better yet replace Rick Steves as the travel guru). But we also had arguments over control or something so silly I can’t remember the content. Lisa is a force, and tension and drama swirl around her. So our goodbyes were a complex mixture of sadness, relief and affection. I suppose that the quest for adventure was the glue that held us together when times of “irreconcilable differences” appeared between us. RD and I got her to each adventure, and in return she created something unique when we got there. As guide and interpreter, she has been an integral part of my Mexican adventure. In spite of our best efforts to occasionally hate each other, a lasting bond developed. Love takes many forms, many beyond words, and she has scratched her way into my heart in a way I am not in love with her, but I love her. She is a vagabond floating in the wind. Her final words to me were “it’s been fun“, and I couldn’t find anything better to say in return. I don’t know if I will ever see her again.